History of Ubud

The 193O’s saw the first real development of tourism on the island of Bali. Much of this was centred in the Ubud area due to the entrepreneurial savvy of Tjokorde Gede Agung Sukawati.

In the 70s, backpackers and researchers alike flocked to Ubud. The serene atmosphere was conducive for painters and one could study music and dance with some of the greats. It only took a brief fifteen years before Ubud changed from a sleepy, dirt road village of the past into the bustling tourist town it is today. Yet still Ubud remains a draw for artists, dancers, musicians, students and anthropologists of all stripes.

Even in the 21st century, Balinese firmly believe in the power of the unseen world. There is a tiny tree with six branches on it that lives inside a box within the Pura Batukaru temple in Ubud. This tree sprouts kepeng of Chinese coins on it which reflect the economic tenor of the times. The last time the box was opened, there were four coins in it. In the 1 960s, during the economic crisis, there were just three. Tjokorde Gede Oka Sukawati stated that perhaps at the end of the 19th century, during his grandfather’s time, that there might have been six.

Another barometer of sorts for Ubud is a celuluk mask, which is used in the tale of the black magic dance-drama, the Calonarang. This mask was given to a Western couple back in the 1960’s as a wedding gift. It travelled around the world with them, bringing nightmares to those in close proximity. The woman recipient was said to unhitch herself off walls and float around her house. Finally, she has come to rest in Puri Saren and if you are out around one in the morning, you will see her lurking in front of the Puri.

A paranormal told Ubudians that she has come here to protect the people of Ubud. There are numerous stories like these.

Why is it that the Ubud area has such a rich artistic tradition? Some will tell you it is the beauty of the land, but there are places far more breathtaking than Ubud on the island. Others will tell you it is due to the spiritual energy created by the confluence of the river waters at Campuhan. Whatever it is, Rsi Markandeya was the first to discover what visitors have been coming back to for centuries.